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The E. G. Danner Live-well Pump
By Vincent Gathmann Four or five years ago, when I needed a replacement live-well pump, I went on an on-line, Internet hunt for a commercial aquarium pump that had the "horse-power" to keep either herring or menhaden alive in a live-well in my truck during extended fishing trips. The pump I found that best suited the purpose was also relatively inexpensive (under $60 with a 12-volt motor). Dynamaster double-piston pumps, when rigged up with a Dayton 12-volt DC motor, will generate 400 cubic inches of air per minute, which will keep a tank full of bunker well supplied with oxygenated water for a good length of time! There are some modifications necessary to make the Danner pump work with a DC motor. You will have to create a short, simple bracket with a couple of properly drilled holes to accommodate for the fact that the motors mounting bolts are not spaced wide enough for the pumps mounting holes (see illustration.) Some machine lock nuts or wing nuts and washers to match the motor mount screws, and an additional 1-inch-long machine screw to mount the motor to the pump will also be needed. You will also want to mount the pump to a piece of 3/4" wood at least 6" square with brackets or braces mounted to the bottom of the pump. I build 7-10" five-sided cubes out of 3/4" painted exterior plywood to enclose my pumps. Finish this off by soldering (or crimping) the motors positive pole wire to one pole of a simple toggle switch and the other switch pole and the motors negative pole to a decent length of two-pair electrical wire, terminating them with alligator clips to secure to your DC power source -- usually your car or truck battery. You can add an in-line 5-amp auto fuse if you like. If you're not very mechanically inclined, you can buy the pump pre-assembled with a 110-volt AC motor for $62.90*, but that won't make it very practical or portable. Although there are a number of DC to AC converters, they will drain your average car battery. If you create a bracket as shown in the illustration above, you should have no problem modifying the pump for the Dayton DC motor. However, if you can't make the modifications yourself, perhaps you know someone who can, or you might look up your old high school shop teacher and impose on him or her! The address of the aquarium supplies company (Daleco Master Breeder Products) that I use, and the part numbers and pricing are shown below. When purchasing the DC motor, please note that Grainger sells to businesses only and they don't sell retail. Purchase the motor through your company (or just walk in and use any business card -- even one belonging to someone else -- and pay cash). I don't know of anybody who hasn't been able to walk into the Eatontown Grainger location and buy one of these motors. You will need a T-connector for standard aerator hose, some length of standard hose and a large air stone. Connect the "bar" of the T-connector to the two piston connectors by using two short, 13/4" lengths of hose. Connect the air stone to the T-connector with a length of hose long enough to reach to the bottom of your live-well tank. The air stone, T-connector and aerator hose can be purchased at any local pet store that sells aquarium supplies. |
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Pump Description: Dynamaster All Parts Less Motor (Item # 18010007) $28.90* Motor *Prices as of 12/26/01 |
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